Playa de Spilies is a hidden gem in Crete, famous for its unique rock formations and sea caves that invite exploration in its crystal-clear waters.
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About this beach
Table of contents
Introduction
If there is a spot on the north coast of Crete that has stolen our hearts with its uniqueness and natural beauty, it is undoubtedly Playa de Spilies. Forget the long stretches of golden sand and the crowds; here, what you will find is a series of small coves and rocky nooks that form an almost lunar landscape, sculpted by wind and sea over millennia. This is a destination for those seeking something different, a more intimate experience with the wild and authentic nature of the island. Playa de Spilies is not just a place to sunbathe; it is a canvas for exploration, an underwater paradise, and a sanctuary of tranquility that invites us to disconnect from the hustle and bustle.
Located a few kilometers east of the vibrant city of Rethymno, on the north coast of Crete, Playa de Spilies translates literally as 'Beach of the Caves', a name that perfectly describes its most distinctive feature. Its waters, of a deep blue and astonishing clarity, are a magnet for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts, who will find a fascinating underwater world among its rock formations and small grottos. We consider it a hidden treasure, a place where each visit reveals a new detail, a new perspective of its untamed beauty. Get ready for an adventure, to leave haste behind and immerse yourself in the pure essence of the Cretan coast.
How to Get to Playa de Spilies
Getting to Playa de Spilies is relatively straightforward, although we recommend going with your own vehicle for greater comfort and to explore the surroundings. The beach is located about 15 kilometers east of the city of Rethymno (Creta), following the coastal road that connects Rethymno with Heraklion.
By Rental Car
This is, in our opinion, the best option. From Rethymno, take the E75 (also known as the national road) heading east. You will see signs indicating 'Skaleta' or 'Panormo'. Playa de Spilies is located just after Skaleta, before reaching Panormo. There is a well-signposted turnoff that will take you directly to an informal parking area next to the beach. The journey takes approximately 20-25 minutes from the center of Rethymno. The roads in Crete are generally good. Driving will give you the freedom to stop at viewpoints or at other nearby beaches and villages. Don't worry about parking; there is enough space to leave the car without problems, especially outside the high season.
By Bus
Although less flexible, the bus is an economical option. You can take a KTEL bus from the Rethymno bus station heading to Heraklion or to villages like Panormo. You should ask the driver to let you off at the stop closest to Playa de Spilies, which is usually on the main road, near the turnoff. From there, you will likely have to walk about 5-10 minutes downhill to the beach. We advise you to ask the driver to make sure where to get off, as the stops are not always clearly marked.
Taxi or Private Transfer
If you prefer comfort and don't want to worry about driving or bus schedules, a taxi or private transfer from Rethymno is an excellent alternative. It is more expensive, of course, but it will drop you off directly at the beach and you can arrange a pickup time. It's a good option if you are traveling in a group and can share the costs.
The Sand and Water
Playa de Spilies stands out notably from other Cretan beaches due to its composition. Here you will not find a vast expanse of fine golden sand, but a fascinating mix that gives it a unique character. The ground type is predominantly mixed, combining sand, rock, and pebble. The small coves that make up the beach are mainly covered by medium-sized pebbles and small stones, giving it a rustic and natural appearance. Among these rock formations, you sometimes find small patches of mixed sand, which can vary from fine to coarse, but it is not the dominant element.
When walking on the beach, we recommend wearing water shoes or sturdy sandals, as the stones can be a bit uncomfortable for bare feet. However, this characteristic is precisely what makes its waters so extraordinarily clear. The absence of large amounts of fine sand means sediment is not easily stirred up, resulting in exceptional underwater visibility. It's like swimming in a giant natural pool, where every detail of the seabed is visible to the naked eye. We love diving into these waters and feeling the freshness and purity they offer.
The waters of Playa de Spilies are generally calm and of an intense turquoise blue color, which deepens quickly in some areas. This feature is ideal for snorkeling and diving, as the underwater rock formations and caves create a rich habitat for marine life. You will be able to see small fish, sea urchins, and, with a bit of luck, other marine creatures. The water temperature is pleasant during the summer months, inviting long swims and underwater explorations. The presence of rocks and the depth may make it less suitable for very young children or for those who prefer a gradual, sandy entry into the sea, but for swimmers and explorers, it is a true paradise.
Services and Facilities
Unlike the more touristy and developed beaches of Rethymno (Creta), Playa de Spilies maintains a more discreet profile in terms of services, which contributes to its natural and less crowded charm. However, you will find the essentials for a pleasant and comfortable day in this paradisiacal corner.
The most notable and appreciated service is the presence of a Chiringuito or, rather,