Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos)

Introduction

If there is a place in Crete that captures the essence of the unexpected and the beautifully unique, that is undoubtedly Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos). Forget conventional golden sand beaches; here, nature surprises us with a scarlet canvas that contrasts wonderfully with the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean Sea. Located near the mythical village of Matala, in the Heraklion (Crete) region, this beach is much more than just a sandy area: it is an experience, a refuge for the adventurous soul, and a paradise for photography lovers.

Upon arriving at Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos), one realizes they have found something special. Its name, meaning 'Red Sand' in Greek, could not be more accurate. The sand, of an intense reddish hue, is the result of the erosion of the iron-rich rocks from the surrounding cliffs. This geological phenomenon creates an almost Martian landscape, which has attracted visitors from all over the world, including those seeking a more alternative and free-spirited atmosphere. We consider it one of the most unique and memorable beaches in Greece.

How to Get to Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos)

The path to Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) is part of its charm, as it adds a touch of adventure to the visit. It is not a beach accessible directly by car, which helps maintain its wilder and less crowded atmosphere. The most common way to get there is from the nearby village of Matala, which is about 65-70 kilometers south of the city of Heraklion.

First, we recommend driving to Matala. From Heraklion, the route is simple and well-signposted, passing through Cretan rural landscapes. Once in Matala, we can park the car in one of the available village parking lots. From there, access to Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) is on foot. The trail begins at the northern end of Matala beach and ascends a rocky hill. It is a hike of approximately 20 to 30 minutes, depending on our pace and the stops we make to admire the views.

The trail, although not excessively difficult, requires comfortable and suitable footwear, as the terrain is uneven and rocky in some sections. As we climb, the panoramic views of the Libyan Sea and the coast are spectacular, offering us a unique perspective of the region. Once we crest the hill, the view of Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) suddenly appears before us, with its scarlet sand vividly contrasting with the blue of the sea. There is also the option of arriving by water-taxi from Matala, a more comfortable alternative for those who prefer to avoid the hike or are looking for a different experience.

The Sand and the Water

What truly distinguishes Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) is, certainly, its sand. We were amazed by the intense reddish, almost terracotta color that covers the entire expanse of the beach. This particular coloration is due to the presence of iron minerals in the rocks of the surrounding cliffs, which, over time and through erosion, have decomposed and mixed with the sand. The result is a landscape that seems taken from another planet, especially when the sun's rays shine on it, intensifying its tone even more.

The sand is fine and very pleasant to the touch, making it perfect for relaxing and sunbathing. However, due to its color, it may slightly stain lighter swimwear, although it generally comes off easily. The contrast of the red sand with the crystal-clear waters of the Libyan Sea is simply stunning. The water here is a deep, transparent blue, which immediately invites a refreshing swim.

The seabed is mainly sandy in the areas closest to the shore, making it ideal for swimming and enjoying a safe dip. As we go further out or approach the ends of the beach, we can find some submerged rock formations, which are perfect for those who enjoy snorkeling. The underwater visibility is excellent, allowing us to observe the local marine life clearly. The waters are usually calm, especially on days without much wind, which contributes to the feeling of peace and isolation offered by this beautiful beach in Heraklion (Crete).

Services and Facilities

We always warn that Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) is not a beach with massive tourist infrastructure, and precisely therein lies much of its charm. If we are looking for a place with all the luxuries and comforts of a resort, perhaps this is not our ideal option. However, for those who appreciate natural beauty and a more authentic atmosphere, the available facilities are sufficient and integrate respectfully into the environment.

The most notable and almost the only service is a small chiringuito or snack bar that operates during the high season. Popularly known as 'George's Cantina', this modest establishment offers cold drinks, some light snacks, and sometimes fresh fruit. It is the perfect place to hydrate and replenish energy after the hike or a good swim. We are always grateful for this supply point, as it avoids having to carry excessive provisions.

In addition to the chiringuito, it is possible to find some umbrellas and sunbeds available for rent. These are managed by the same chiringuito and offer a bit of shade and comfort for spending the day. However, the quantity is limited, so if we travel in high season, we recommend arriving early or considering bringing our own umbrella and towel if we want to secure a good spot. It is important to note that Playa Roja (Kokkini Ammos) lacks services such as public showers, permanent toilets/WCs, or lifeguards

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